Description
Mount Adams, situated in the eastern Cascade range, east of Mount Saint Helens and north of Mount Hood, is the second most massive and the third tallest volcano in the Cascade range. It's eruptive volume is about 48 cubic miles and only Mount Shasta is larger in volume in the Cascades. About 60% of the mountain is in the Mount Adams Wilderness while the remainder (the East Side) was returned to the Yakima Indian Reservation. While often called a neglected mountain, this is debatable. During an early summer weekend, the Mount Adams Ranger Station recently issued Cascade Volcano Passes for over 350 people. Most of these people stay close to the South Spur described below. Be careful of rockfalls, especially on the headwall routes - there's a reason why most Mount Adams headwall routes remain unrepeated.
The South Spur Route (aka South Climb, South Side, or South Rib), which initially follows the South Climb Trail #183, is the easiest and most popular route on the mountain. This straight-forward snow climb is easily done in 1 or 2 days with crampons and a mountaineering axe. During late spring and early summer (typically through July), this route also happens to lead to the thousands of vertical feet of intermediate-level crevasse-free corn skiing/snowboarding and chute glissading. While climbing is better earlier in the day on harder snow, on the descent skiers and glissaders will appreciate waiting a bit until the snow is softer. The trailhead for the South Spur Route is at the Cold Springs Campground at 5,600' and while the trail is only 5.7 miles, it climbs 6,676' to the summit in that short distance, not counting dip in the saddle after Piker's Peak.
There are many alternate routes to the summit, however, the North Ridge (class 2, aka North Cleaver), between the Adams and Lava Glaciers, is the second most popular. This route is much more pleasant early in the season when still snow covered and is accessed by the Killen Creek Trail #113.
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